Gardening for the Month

Fall Gardening Tips     Why Fall is for Planting:   Fall is an ideal time to get a big head start on next year’s growing season!  It’s a proven fact that fall planting gets perennial flowers, shrubs and trees of to a faster, more vigorous start the following spring.  Let’s look at the factors that make fall such a good time to plant.   1.     Fall planted perennials bloom more profusely the following spring.  Fall planted perennials develop larger, more-established root systems with fall transplanting and take off more quickly than the same sized plant transplanted in spring.   2.     Fall transplanting requires less water.  As plants go dormant, they require less frequent irrigation.  This is especially valuable when planting gardens in areas with summer watering restrictions and surcharges.  Note:  Be sure to water first year transplants during the winter (once every 3-4 weeks) when winter moisture is scarce and the soil isn’t solidly frozen.   3.     Fall is the preferred planting time in the southwestern US (and in other mild winter climates with extreme summer temperatures).  Mild fall and winter temperatures are ideal for establishing new transplants.   4.     Establish plants before the dry, punishing winds of spring and the withering heat of summer.  Fall transplants have larger, more established roots that help plants survive difficult climatic conditions, like heat and wind.[1]     [1] High Country Gardens Catalog & Handbook, 2006 Fall Edition, Page 9.

Gardening Tips for the Month of July Vegetables.  Zones 1a-3b: Sow bush beans, collards, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, okra, and snap beans. (The wonderful Sunset Magazine zone guide that Guru Meher sent, but I was not able to insert shows that we are in climate zone 1a-3b.) Smart summer watering Believe it or not, it's possible to use more water on your summer garden than you use for all other purposes all year long. But you don't have to. Just be smart about when and how you water, and you'll have a lush landscape and lower water bills. Here's how to do it.   Annuals and perennials Use soaker hoses or a regular hose set for a slow soak. Underground sprinklers with pop-up risers work in extensive flower beds, but risers should be tall enough that foliage doesn't block the spray. Choose drip emitters for beds with closely spaced plants and individual emitters for widely spaced plants. Avoid overhead watering, which can cause flowers to spot or droop.   Containers Hand-water gently with a wide nozzle, or use drip to irrigate pots or hanging baskets. When you repot, choose glazed or plastic containers instead of terra-cotta, which is porous and evaporates water through its sides. Or slip a pot into a larger one, with a layer of sand between the two to shade the inner pot and slow evaporation.   Roses Use underground sprinklers with flat-head sprayers; run them early in the day to keep leaves dry and prevent disease. Soaker hoses work well on flat ground.   Trees Non-native trees benefit from a monthly deep soaking. Put a rose-type sprinkler under the canopy (don't let the spray hit the trunk) and let it run until you've applied 2 inches; move the sprinkler to wet the entire root zone. Or use a hose-end, deep-root irrigator and insert it about 12 inches into the soil; run the water for 10 to 15 minutes. Depending on the size and age of the tree, repeat 3 to 11 times, moving in a circle under the dripline of the tree.   Vegetables Most vegetables do best with roots kept moist and leaves kept dry. Young seedlings need water as often as two times per day for short periods; larger plants need more water to a greater depth. Group vegetable plants by growth rate and mature size, as well as by water needs. Use soaker hoses beside rows on flat ground. Or run a gentle stream of water from the hose into basins or furrows around plants.   What else? Water only in early morning (when cool temperatures minimize evaporation), and avoid watering on windy days. Cover the soil under permanent plants with 2 inches of organic mulch such as compost or ground bark. The mulch holds in moisture and gradually decomposes and enriches your soil. Keep it away from the base of trunks. If you live in the Southwest or Northwest where summer rains are likely, use your roof to collect rainwater. Let gutters channel it into rain barrels or directly into landscape beds. For tips, how-to information, and sources, go to www.harvesth2o.com.[1]   What is a Rain Barrel? A rain barrel is a system that collects and stores rainwater from your roof that would otherwise be lost to runoff and diverted to storm drains and streams. Usually a rain barrel is composed of a 55 gallon drum, a vinyl hose, PVC couplings, and a screen grate to keep debris and insects out. A rain barrel is relatively simple and inexpensive to construct and can sit conveniently under any down spout.   What are the advantages of a rain barrel? Lawn and garden watering make up nearly 40% of total household water use during the summer. A rain barrel collects water and stores it for when you need to water plants or wash car. Rain barrels provide an ample supply of free "soft water" containing no chlorine, lime or calcium making it ideal for gardens, flower or the potted plants. According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, a rain barrel can potentially save most homeowners about 1,300 gallons of water during the peak summer months.  Consequently, a rain barrel is an easy way for you to have a consistent supply of clean, fresh water for outdoor use and save money today and tomorrow. [2] Graywater Becomes Common in Landscaping By Emily Van Cleve For the Albuquerque Journal Riggs, co-owner of EcoScapes Landscaping, is part of a growing number of landscape professionals who are offering ways for homeowners to take household water and reuse it to nourish trees and gardens. Graywater— water that comes from the washing machine, bathroom sinks, showers and tubs— can be channeled into a diversion tank placed under the house and pumped out through flexible pipes to fruit and shade trees, shrubs and garden plants.  State law requires that graywater be dispersed out of the tank or treated in the tank within 24 hours or the unit is considered a septic system, said Richard Jennings, a designer of sustainable water systems who owns Earthwrights Designs who works with Riggs on graywater projects. Because of that legal requirement, graywater tanks are usually small— 25 to 35 gallons. "Before I design a graywater system, I need to assess how much water there will be and how I'm going to get it out of the home," explained Jennings. "Ninety-five percent of Santa Fe homes are on slabs where the plumbing is encased in concrete. The washing machine drain pipe is usually accessible. That can be the number one source of graywater for most city residents. Older washing machines use 40 gallons of water per load, while energy-efficient models use between 18 and 25 gallons." The pump on the diversion tank has a sensor that knows when the tank is full and water needs to be dispersed. Water can be diverted through up to six different outlets, so many areas of a yard benefit from the moisture. Most people prefer to bury the irrigation pipes that lead to their plants, but that is an aesthetic choice and not necessary for the proper functioning of the system, according to Riggs and Jennings. Since graywater has soap scum and hair particles, it can't go through a drip irrigation system. Henry and Julie Rothschild hired Jennings and Riggs to divert graywater from their Casa Solana home to their landscaped yard. Since the home only had a tiny crawl space in which to set up the equipment, Jennings designed a system that he said could be a prototype for similar properties with low crawl spaces.  But diversion tanks can also go outside if they can't fit under the house, said Riggs. "There are lots of design options available." While putting together a graywater system can cost thousands of dollars, less expensive, do-it-yourself systems can be constructed by the homeowner.  Jennings suggests beginning with information from Art Ludwig's book, "Create an Oasis with Greywater: Your Complete Guide to Choosing, Building and Using Greywater Systems," and the Web site www.oasisdesign.net. "It could just be as simple as running a pipe from the washer drain to the garden," said Riggs. "Most people would need some kind of pump to move the water. And remember that these systems should be used only in the summer months. Graywater systems need to be turned off and the water diverted into the sewer or septic system during the winter due to freezing temperatures."[3] [1] Sunset Magazine, July, 2006 Issue [2] http://www.harvesth2o.com/rainbarrel101.shtml [3] Albuquerque Journal North, Tuesday, June 27, 2006